10 Things You Should Know Before Buying a Rabbit

You see rabbits in every pet shop. They are impossibly adored with lasciviousness. There is always someone who catches your eye. With one sniff of his nose and the touch of his soft velvety skin, you will be forced to take him home and take care of him.

Of course you’re cute and easy to love, but most people don’t realize how much work and money it takes to have a charm. The fact that they mainly live in cages fools people into thinking that they have to work less than a cat or a dog, but in reality rabbits can turn out to be a lot more work than they previously bargained for. Especially when the rabbit lives at home, which for various reasons, exposure and danger from other animals are the two main ones. Why can’t rabbits live outside? Before you think about getting one of these crazy creatures, here’s what you need to know;

  1. Dwelling. Buying a cage is the best place to keep the rabbit when it doesn’t run away. The cage is spacious enough for the rabbit to move around, stand up and stretch out. Also, don’t buy a cage with a wire bottom. That can hurt your feet. Be sure to place the cage in a room where the rabbit will have plenty of interaction with you and your family. Rabbits are social creatures – they like to be around people and be in the middle of the action
  2. Food/water retention. After buying a cage, you need to buy a food bowl (which won’t sleep easily like the infamous rabbits to play with them) and a water bottle. Bottles work best because they only need to be changed every day (versus every day with a bowl of water) and are much more sanitary.
  3. Litter training. Rabbits were easily taught to make litters. It is so easy that all need to buy a cat specially made for small animals (available at most pet stores) and put in the rabbit’s cage. Your rabbit will inherit from it. The receptacles must be changed once a week. Also, be careful not to use cedar chips to line the xxxiii or wood chips to line the dish, pan. If a rabbit chews on the feed, it can seriously damage the digestive tract. Instead, use newspaper balls or recycled balls. They have a better absorption, not to say a healthier rabbit.
  4. Neutering/spaying. When buying a rabbit, it is very important that it is attached. This risk is not only mating (if you have one of each sex), suppressed hormones (which your rabbit can make you urinate when disturbed) and the risk of being soaked health problems later in the rabbit’s life.
  5. Bunny-proofing. Since rabbits have a destructive nature, you will need to “bunny-proof” your home.Electrical wires and computer and telephone cables will need to be wrapped by protective plastic wire or removed from the rabbit’s sight as rabbits love to gnaw on them. Many other household items can prove deadly. rabbits, such as potpourri, cigarette butts, pesticides, sere, prescription medicine and antifreeze from an inquisitive rabbit.
  6. Exercise. Like dogs, rabbits need exercise. Depending on the rabbit breed, it is absolutely necessary to request your cage to run. Even though you may have your home “bunny-proofed,” it likely isn’t enough to protect against the kind of damage a rabbit can commit. That’s why it’s a good idea to buy a style for your rabbit to run around with. Throw some toys in and your rabbit will be content.
  7. Toys. You may be tempted to go out and buy “designer” animal toys, but your rabbit probably won’t. Instead, rabbits find entertainment in items that you probably already have in your home. Items like empty paper towel and toilet paper rolls and cardboard boxes are popular among rabbits. Keep an eye on how much the rabbit enjoys his toy. If he eats it, he moves to another type of material such as fabric or plastic to see what kind of toy he chews. than to eat
  8. Diet. A rabbit’s diet is essential to its happiness and health. They should have a varied diet of pellets, vegetables and hay mixed with some fruit and treats. This supply provides a good amount of fiber for the rabbit diet. So well, indeed, they can have an immense amount. Be sure to have hay on hand at all times. Carrots, kale, radishes and turnips are also proven to be good for nutrition as well as blueberries, pears and strawberries. If you want to reward your rabbit for good behavior, you can treat them to 1 tbsp. dry oatmeal, loose, dry cereal like Cheerios or a piece of bread (the best is whole wheat). Since it’s not the healthiest of treats and should be distributed sparingly, rabbits go nuts for Cheez-Its.
  9. Social animals. Rabbits are very social, not only with each other, but also with humans. They enjoy being attentive and love to play. But the rabbit can be extremely cautious by nature and jumps around new people, including those it owns. Bear with it, your rabbit will come around. It helps if you don’t “force” yourself into the rabbit. Let the rabbit come to you. When he realizes that he is safe in a loving environment, he will become more playful and loving.
  10. Twice as good If you find that you have to take care of your rabbit and play with it, you are thinking about getting another one. Not only does this mean doubling your food supply and buying another cage and all other supplies, it means additional planning on your part. Introducing another rabbit into your home can upset the one you already have. Introductions between the old rabbit and the new one should be done carefully as the two rabbits may start fighting. In fact, you should never leave two new rabbits together until they are sure they have arrived. Until the two accept each other, you must keep them in their respective cages and limit contact with each other.

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