Whether you are adding a new room to your house or just putting up a new wall or partition in your basement, somewhere along the way you’re going to need to build a wall. Building a stud wall seems easy enough and it is. There are of course techniques that aren’t really known to the do-it-yourselfer. Within this article are some great tips and advice for building a 2×4-stud wall.
Before you begin, you will need to layout the wall on the floor. Measure from the largest existing wall in your home. If at all possible, measure from an outside wall. Outside walls are typically straighter for pulling a more accurate measurement. If you’re reading measurements from a blueprint, don’t forget to add ½ inch for drywall. Make a mark on the floor with a pencil or crayon. From that measurement add 3 ½ inches for the width of the plate. Repeat the process on the opposite end of your wall. Once you have the marks on the floor, use a chalk box to snap the line. Have a friend hold the other end tight as possible and snap the line. If the wall is very long, you may need another friend to hold the line in the center to the floor. Snap the line on both sides. This assures the line is straight when snapped. A long string line tends to snap unevenly at great lengths and may end up curved. Do this for each side of the plate. Pull the line past the actual length of the wall for an accurate line for placing your wall.
Once you have the wall in place mark any opening on the floor. Use a speed square to make an accurate square end on the wall and doorways. Always write the door openings width on the floor between the doorway. This assures you order the correct door. If your working on a concrete floor you will need to have the bottom plate made from pressure treated lumber. Concrete will destroy spruce or other materials over time. Use spruce for the rest of the studs and top plate. If you have a wood floor, spruce is ok for the entire wall. Measure the wall length you have on the floor and cut both plates to this length. Don’t worry about cutting out for door on the bottom plate at this time. You will cut them out later when the wall is in place, this way the wall will be more likely square.
Turn the plate’s 1 ½-inch side up and hold the flush on the ends and tight together. From left to right pull your tape across the plates. Instead of using the typical 16-inch marks on your tape measure subtract ¾ inch. An example is 15 ¼, 31 ¼, 47 ¼, etc. This makes the drywall or exterior plywood fit in the center of the studs. Transfer the marks to both plates using a speed square. Mark an x after each 16-inch interval to assure proper stud placement.
Separate the plates with the bottom plate closest to the chalk line on the floor. Don’t turn the plates around or move any way than the wall is laid out. It could effect the layout if you reverse the plates. Place studs in between the plates at the corresponding marks. Sandwich the studs between the plates. Attach using two 12d nails in the plates on the top and bottom chords. Work your way along one plate first then continue along the other until the wall is secured. Lift the wall up towards the chalk line. Move the floor on the chalk line tight against any existing wall first. Once you have the wall tight against a wall and between the chalk lines, use a hard cut masonry nail for concrete or a 12d for wood floors. Work your way down the wall adjusting it to fit between the lines accordingly. Have someone hold the wall while you do this. Plumb the wall at the existing wall first with a level and mark with a pencil. Attach to the wall with 12d nails or cut nails for concrete about every 12 inches. Secure any other walls to it at this time. Use a temporary brace to hold any walls that move before attaching the top plate to the ceiling.
You should now have a new wall attached and leveled properly. Remove any braces once the wall is secured and plumbed. Cut out any bottom plates for doors at this time. You can attach any wallboard at this time.
