With the scythe, where is the scythe? There is no other task that strikes fear into the heart of the most avid gardener like the subject of pruning plants. However, successful pruning can be one of the most important tasks of gardening, because the results can be spectacular. Pruning done correctly yields abundant flowers, leaves and fruits. Pruning done incorrectly results in distressed plants, disappointment and failure! We are not in the least afraid of the process.
Successful pruning can be complicated and difficult, but it’s actually not as complicated as many other garden activities that gardeners regularly perform. It’s all about learning the right methods for each type and variety of plant. There are distinct differences and the answer lies in what all good gardeners already know. Know each and every one of your plants and what they are capable of growing. Along with soil quality, the right setting and nutrients, good pruning is another tool in the gardener’s tool and one that has something to offer. easy basic steps to master. Good pruning results in a healthier, greener garden.
What is the pruning?
First, let’s define what pruning is and what it can do to help plants. While you don’t need to be a gardener to understand the entire process, you do need to have some basic plant knowledge. Simply put, when pruning a gardener controls plants growth and development in specific patterns. Each arrow (or branch) in the wild ends in what are known as terminal buds, below which other buds (or future branches) are placed in specific patterns that are either of different plant species . Four are placed inoculation; Alternate, opposite, spiral or whorled.
The terminal (end) bud is where the branch grows longer and is the lead bud on the shoot. This plant produces a chemical that slows the growth of the plants behind it on the shoot. If the terminal bud has been removed by pinch, arrh or snapping, its chemical supply will slow down and the remaining buds (called lateral buds) will form rapidly. they grow and spring, from which they look in a bush to a long spiral growth of a plant. That sounds pretty simple right, well, it’s a bit more complicated than that, again depending on the individual species.
For the most part, pruning always stimulates growth, but how severe your pruning is depends on exactly what you want to happen to the plant. If the plant has not been saved, and has been left in any pattern of growth, that plant may need what is called a vigorous cutting. back which in the spring occurs in many new shoots rapid growth. Heavy pruning (or cutting back) will result in vegetative growth of the plant, but light pruning allows for slower growth.
Why would you think?
There are those who claim that pruning a plant is a pattern against natural growth and has the potential to actually damage the plant, opening up the cut, which allows the disease to thrive. Plants get sick and need care just like people.
The argument for thinking states that the garden environment is managed or controlled, and thus each plant co-exists in relation to the other plants in the garden. Sometimes, when it is absolutely necessary to think to encourage healthier growth and healthier regeneration trees and plants. It is also a running and decorating element. Gardeners want equal symmetry in their gardens, borders, and hedges. Pruning will do well if it is neat and well cared for in the garden.
Of course, good planting is key here too. Knowing how big the plant will eventually become is important. There are plants that require much more space than the gardener has allowed for them and no amount of pruning will squeeze into less than the required space allocation and actually harm the plant. We have all seen the most beautiful small trees bonsai, but this is a special plant that requires extensive training and care. very little pruning, but many bushes need space. Think carefully as you plant.
The argument against the disease is that young plants heal quickly when cut and pruned. Four or five years of pruning on young established plants can get them into great shape and basic structure, requiring only occasional light pruning to maintain. Again, knowing your plant and what shape, space and design you want to have in your garden, it is important to know how and when to trim the plant.
However, even freer and older plants annually require some form of pruning to maintain and maintain healthy and productive fruit. flower Annual pruning removes old wood to allow shoots to flourish and become stronger. Flowers, like roses, bloom larger in shoots than in old ones; Annual or renewal pruning results in plants that remain compact and youthful. When dead, injured and diseased branches and branches are cut, everything must return to a healthy forest. These shoots should be disposed of for burning to eliminate any infection or disease in the garden. Correct pruning is most essential to restore a sick plant to good health.
When to think
It is accepted that during the dormant season is the best time to trim any grass. In most growing zones in the United this is the period between late fall and early spring. Winter pruning stimulates growth, summer pruning slows it down. But in flowering, when you want to stimulate the most beautiful flower growth, pruning is done immediately after the flowers die. it is best to have a full and abundant flowering growth in the second spring. There are other plants that, for various reasons, serve best in spring, summer, and early fall pruning. Grapes, birch, and maple trees are examples. So knowing your purpose and your plant is essential in successful pruning and knowing when to prune each plant. A conversation with your nursery, consulting plant information online and finding good basic gardening books about pruning will help you find a specific pruning. information for every plant I buy.
Certificates of pruning
Very few tools are necessary for normal garden pruning, but acquiring quality ones is a solid investment for the amateur gardener. There are several important items to have. A good pair of secateurs (or hand pruners as they are often labeled) have three main types available; Anvil, pass-through and parrot bill. All of these take a secure hold to lock the shoulders in a closed position. Don’t buy cheap! They break and do not make good quality cuts in successful pruning.
The incus type has a straight edge cutting blade. The mucrone is a passing curved blade that cuts against a fixed curved blade and through the parrot’s bill has two curved blade edges that work as scissors. When cutting with these, a biter will take care to cut the stem up to the shoulders, making a stronger cut and reducing the danger of the tool. These are hand-mowed with smaller plants and thinner stems. They are great for rose bushes, flowering bushes and plants.
For larger bushes and shrubs, a long clipper is used to cut the thick stems. There are two main types we use in our home garden, hand shears with long blades and handles and long clippers. Long bottom hedge shears work well for decorating green bushes and hedges. But when they climb into difficult spaces and cut the thickest stems, long scythes are sharpened, they supply extra pressure and forces necessary for the section. They also allow the gardener to work at a distance from thorny bushes.
Some gardeners like to use pruning saws and knives. These may require some practice to use and are not necessary for most beginning or amateur gardeners. However, some older fruit trees and larger bushes, a small pruning like the Greek saw A curved scythe or Latin pruning saw with sharp points and teeth on both edges can be useful for removing green woods and larger branches.
All of these tools should be considered necessary to start plants in the common home garden.
In terms of pruning before you consider whether to purchase or plant
I recommend that gardeners who want to learn more about pruning in their garden find specific pruning instructions for each plant in their garden. I consider each plant we add to our garden as an investment and like any investment I want to take care of manually. I want to know what he needs to eat and drink, where he likes to rest, in the shade, or in part of the sun, or in the full, and how he needs to be trimmed (supposedly). Do some basic research before investing in a plant, a good idea for all gardeners. Because pruning is best done as a young plant, learning what type and how to prune your plant is key before you. Plant it so that you have enough space in your garden for that specific plant. I provide the following examples of some basic gardens and how to think of each one from initial planting to maintenance training. Garden books are great and I will highlight a few that are important to us. There’s nothing like a good photo to show you a specific pruning technique.
prunation Rose
Any gardener knows how incredibly beautiful bush roses can be, or how clumsy and uncultivated roses can be! And for this article, it is also important to note that roses could be combined with other shrubs and climbing shrubs, such are the large categories and which are loved by many gardeners. There is also a great deal of variation in the species of cultivated roses, from a scattering of giants to small petites, some blooming at very specific times, others blooming all summer long. Again, best results are obtained by knowing what your specific rose species require. But there are three main types that cover the most varieties, bush hybrid roses, species and bushes of roses and climbing, rambling roses!
Modern Bush Rose
Basic skills start with buying plants that have 3 or 4 strong shoots and a well-developed root system. Before you even plant, trim off long, thick or damaged roots. If you plant in autumn or early winter, cut off any damaged or immature growth at the end of the shoots behind the stem. Just cut them neatly to allow new bush growth. This initial hard pruning eradicates any damaging shoots and re-establishes growth in the spring. The rough gardener is afraid of “damaging” his precious new rose, but if he doesn’t give it a hard initial pruning, he will have a weaker plant in the spring. Cut off about 6 inches of the shoot on each shoot before planting the rose. Follow other good planting techniques like compost and mulch. Then see your new for the first year of spring and summer.
Mid to late autumn is a good time to cut off immature growth or shoots that have not flowered and drooped to the tip (resect) stems. In an exposed garden, where there is a lot of wind, it is useful to reduce each stem by about 1/3. This basic maintenance pruning should have you cutting each stem to a branch that is between 6 and 10 inches above the ground. Cut off the weak growth of the stems more heavily than the strong ones and so that later the old wood is supported by new ones, cut to the base, from the two main blocks of the oldest wood. Now you won’t have only old wood on a smaller plant, maybe you didn’t resurrect it in this one year.
To do your pruning, look in the direction the stem is growing and make angled cuts to allow them to grow. A slight angle in your cut can change the direction of the stem and branch. Look into your rose bush and access the directions you want your roses to grow in. Remember, roses are not one round shape, they can branch out with longer stems and have shorter stems over several longer ones. You can virtually sculpt the shape of your rose by choosing where and how long and which side you cut your cut.
Hybrid rose
These roses are deciduous thorny shrubs and those flower in summer and early autumn. Most grow between 3-4 feet tall with stiff, straight stems and large, high-set flowers. Aim for good pruning to encourage good floral abundance, planted with shrubs in beds or mixed with other decorations. plants. These hybrids vary in vigor and growth according to the forms according to the fruit after them, therefore these large hybrids are very important in the prevention of beautiful flowers and healthy roses.
When these roses bloom in summer, they can continue to produce flowers if they are removed by drooping or drooping roses, and the entire stem (or truss holding) cut flower placed on the first strong bud (or new shoot of growth). It is therefore important, when maintaining your rose garden, to carry a short-hand pruner with you for small pruning I also recommend gardening gloves, since you will be working with thorny stems.
Species and bushes of roses
These roses have a great variety in size, growth, shape and flowering performance and usually only flower once in a growing season. Because of this and because these plants generally look freer and more natural around them, they require less maintenance pruning. Again, before planting, prepare as above for other planting roses. In the blooming season and only deadly pruning you don’t want to do to keep this plant light is to control diseased branches or stems and to contain the plant in the area that is assigned to you Generally these bushes need an equal size of space to develop and once well established it is. In late winter or early spring, cut back up to a third of the vegetables that have developed during the previous growing season. At the same time, even older wood can be cut back to about 6 inches. You don’t want to cut back as much on the newer shoots as this will destroy the nice arching look of the roses and reduce the summer blooming. Remember, young shoots make the most beautiful flowers. Old plants support the structure of the plant.
The main purpose of pruning these plants is to provide space and cut out the older wood to allow the development of new vegetative shoots from the base of the plant. Your maintenance plan is to prune, remove dead and diseased wood in winter or early spring, shorten a third of the long new shoots and cut back the sides on shoots that have already flowered to about 4-6 inches. And then in mid to late autumn cut off the longest growth, and of course any diseased stems or bushes you see. I’m always looking for a disease when you think it’s the end of a good thing. And again, there are so many different types of roses that it is difficult to generalize the habits that affect each variety. Knowing and figuring out what each species or rose plant requires, up to the gardener when he buys and plants a distinct flower . For example “Nevada“ is modern. roses that need almost no pruning. If in doubt, contact a good rose shepherd or gardener and ask for artificial pruning for your rose. I always keep a gardening book with pages for each plant we buy on planting, maintenance, feeding needs, etc. for all our plants.
Climb the Rambling Roses
The final main type of roses are those climbers and ramblers which have very different characters. Some grow like virtual trees, others bloom only once, others produce a whole lavish display of flowers. summer But all of these things respond well to regular programming and management, and this is often the only way to accommodate them in any garden! The fruit of good pruning is the fruit of a plant that will flower throughout much of the length of the stem and not just at the tip. But this is also a plant that requires high skill and education for good pruning. Also, there are three types of wandering that require different skills. Find out what type of wandering rose you bought and try the best technique for your unique variety.
A good example and a common wanderer in home gardens these days are Hybrid Tea Roses. These bloom over time, show fair resistance to disease and are easily trained against walls and fences. They reach a short height of 4-5 feet and are excellent in smaller gardens.
In planting, don’t think hard back. Trim any long roots and only tip the back of the damaged end of the stem and any weak side of the cypress. Start with the rose you plant. Do not crush hard stems, but whenever possible, make horizontal or angled cuts with your scythe to encourage growth in that direction. Between mid-autumn and spring, after the first year, cut back stems that flowered the previous year to about 6 inches. Cutting off these leaders allows new vigorous shoots and sometimes removing old stems at a level close to the ground will encourage even more new growth. The proverb is on new stems, to fill in the gaps. When you surround the roses, you need to provide a strong support either tripods, or rustic poles and metal panels, brick walls or other very old trees. Flexible stems can be tied as necessary to maintain height until the plant itself develops some strong older shoots. The discipline of climbing roses requires patience and a good eye for direction, support and skill. It’s fun, but challenging and is often why gardeners fear these plants in their garden. Remember, the pruning can be done wrong, and the plant will still survive, and you will start with a different plant. If all else fails, cancel and start again!
Trees
The bush is the cornerstone of all garden beds. This is what gives the garden structure, height, and in most areas the bases of the plantings. Shrubs are either deciduous (they lose their leaves every year) or evergreen. Many shrubs require minimal pruning from one year to the next as soon as dead, diseased or damaged wood is noticed. But some shrubs need regular pruning to increase the decorative impact of the plant, the flowering power and the higher shape of the plant in the gardener.
As with most plants, your pruning in the first young years of the plant establishes a well-tempered framework. Some bushes new growth from the base, magnolias and hazel in new witches do not produce examples of this, and therefore only give. these haircuts are sometimes enough to keep the look polished and healthy. For these plants, we remove any weak growth before planting. And then in the spring of the second year, any crop cut must begin to take the shape you want on the bush. Inspect the base plant and remove any sides or extensions of growth that are too far apart. This sets the basic framework for how and in what direction your shrub will bloom. In the third and subsequent years, a little more pruning is required to remove dead or diseased wood. Sometimes these bushes produce what I call an independent palm that just zooms out from the base. You can install them in your organization and main framework, but if it is not possible, just cut them. from the base to avoid the branches piled up and you don’t want to balance.
Most plants purchased at the nursery will have two years of good framework pruning to establish good structure from the start. But because this shrub blossoms, so a new growth develops under the blossoming tree. They have the strongest shoots on their lowest stems, and they are the best ones to choose for cypress pruning. Leave them and encourage the growth of the old trees removed. The best rule of thumb for a flowering shrub is to grow old and young.
Every garden has green shrubs. All of these have very different pruning needs and you should consult your garden or nursery for advice or a good gardener. Pruning evergreens can vary from broad-leafed examples such as lavender, dwarf walnuts and even camellias and rhododendrons. Most of them require minimal protective pruning, but then again, you can’t crash them all at once. Many evergreen shrubs, which tend to do less well, are left to their own devices. They will produce fewer and fewer flowers and eventually become quite bare at the base. It is almost impossible to successfully rejuvenate any of them once neglected. Lavendar is a good example. These hardy bushes must be pruned in the first year and in the following years in mid-spring, as new growth begins. Although dead flowers can be removed in autumn, leave them in cool places to protect the plant from severe cold. Pruning in the middle really works best. And then the new growth will come out that year. For old plants with bare bases, it’s almost always better to dig up the plant and throw it away and start over!
Aspect of horticulture in general
I cannot emphasize enough to the beginning gardener the need to keep good notes and notes. I advise you to buy a nice tie with pockets, a ring, etc. I create a folder for each plant you buy. Even the whole folder! In this folder write the correct scientific name. Consult gardening books, online sites, and your nursery for advice. Treat any plant with an investment of time, love, wealth and hard work. Write care instructions, think times, garden placement. Know your plants, know them well, care for them properly. Write down what they were feeding when they bloomed.
A good gardener goes into his garden every day, and every day regularly does gardening work, weeding, weeding, feeding, feeding and watering as necessary. I think too often, too much emphasis is placed on watering and feeding, and not enough on the cultivation and removal of diseased and dead branches, stems and flowers. Remove the dead, take care of the health, encourage the new growth, and you will have a beautifully manicured garden that will reward you with hours and years of enjoyment. Do the research you need to find healthy plants, and then care for them as your children and your care. They are living things, the plants of your garden and they need to be nurtured to excel and reach their full potential just like your children!
