For antique aficionados who spoil old wooden furniture, it is both a creative process and a dance that begins with some uncertainty. Practice is usually the best teacher when it comes to decorating. Whether a beginner or for any new coin, it is a challenge that has the potential to yield beautiful results. Not only will these following tips keep you in safe, but they will also help you in making the processes and decisions and work easier and less expensive
1. Do not buy before you carefully buy cleaning and examine the furniture.
2. Remove the dirt. This is best done by experimenting on a small inconspicuous area using either wood quality soap or a mixture of linseed heated oil and mineral spirits< /a> to boil and cool . Follow the directions on the label for the soap and don’t be afraid to do the process twice. Murphy Oil Soap is very easy to use and has almost no residue. Both can be applied after washing with cheesecloth or an old cotton t-shirt or finely ironed wool. Since water and liquids swell dry wood, let the piece dry for at least 12 to 24 hours before continuing to work on it.
3. After it has been cleaned, carefully examine the furniture to find out what kind of wood and finish are used to make it. It is not uncommon for antique furniture to be comprised of different types of wood, each species having a different finish. At this point, don’t try to scrape off the old finish with a metal or firm plastic tool. First you need to determine the type of finish you need to remove.
4. Don’t know what your goal is? Here are some hints: if the finish is dull and thin, it is likely that the oil penetrates and can be removed with mineral spirits. If not, use a cloth moistened with alcohol and rub the wood on the hidden area of the test – if the shellac is perfect it will soften. If not, rub the test area with ink thinner on a cloth – the lacquer-based finish will soften. If the piece is mid-19th century furniture, it is probably milk paint. If the drachma is in good condition, it is more valuable if it is not refinished. If it’s not expensive, a cloth soaked in household ammonia will work best as milk removing paint. If the piece is from the early 20th century or the Depression Era, chances are the wood may have a creosote (black) seal, which will require several applications of stripper, rubbing and aggressive stripping using delicate tools.
5. Now that you know what kind of perfection you have, you must decide whether you want to spoil yourself or dip the polished with a gift. Dip-striping damages articles of furniture which could mean extra work and devaluation of antiquity. If the chair has a ring, it is best to have a professional polisher who also handles re-caning.
6. When buying a stripper, no dripping, water based is the best. But carefully read the labels for the best stripper type wood and finish you want to remove. There are many varieties and each has its own purpose. For the purpose we also need safety goggles, resistant gloves, a large trash bag and an organic vapor mask. Be sure to work in a well-seasoned area.
7. Useful removal tools include: a plastic spatula for removing the remover and for detailed work: fine steel wool, old dental instruments, a toothbrush or more brass bristles (burlap pieces, and mixed wood shavings or wood shavings. removal is also useful for individual work are). After you have a piece of stripper, place it in a large plastic bag to slow down evaporation during the stripper. Another tip, adding a stripper or paint stripper helps keep it from running, especially on large vertical surfaces. An oven cleaner can also be used to remove paint and varnish – it’s cheaper than a stripper. But since this process darkens the wood, it should only be used on non-precious pieces that you intend to paint.
8. The key to good stripping antique furniture is using the right tools, working slowly so the wood doesn’t and most of all – patience.
