Replacing a Pool Pump & Motor – Do it Yourself

Replace the tank pump and motor with easy to do pipes if you are mechanically inclined and have some lead & electrical experience. If you were to do this job yourself, you would save about 50% of what you would charge a pool contractor for the entire job. This is not a step-by-step instruction guide to follow, but rather an overview of how to repair or replace a tank pump or motor and appreciate the work involved in doing it. When he goes into the tank to look for a bad pump and listen for the following; a rattling noise from the engine that continues a few minutes after starting, excessive heating of the engine, water leaks around the pump housing, water leaks around motor housing or pump losing its prime – no water seen in basket or dry. If you hear a rattling sound, it is most likely the motor or the bearing. If the water flow is not steady and the pump motor is running, it is likely that the pump or the impellers are missing.

There are two ways to approach each of these repairs. You can only replace broken or worn parts and seals if you are limited in funds or only replace the motor or pump housing separately, this requires taking the two parts apart to install new parts and seals. The second choice is to replace the entire pump & a mobile assembly with a new manufacturing one. If your pump and motor are 7 – 12 year olds I recommend changing them. the entire assembly, if just part 1 is changed, there will probably be most of the tension in the other older parts, which may fail shortly after replacing the current parts. In the discovery of acquiring a complete motor & A pump assembled from the factory will give you a factory warranty on the motor and pump, a few years of safe service and solve the problem of finding discontinued replacement parts for an older pump.

If you decide to replace the entire pump motor assembly here are some tips to keep in mind. Before you actually replace, turn off the pump and look for the manufacturers tag on the motor and pump and write down all the information, manufacturer, voltage, HP, 110/220v, phase, pipe pump size in the limb and outlet and model number and check if it is the size of the pump to handle the volume of your tank. Now do the rest of the research from this information and pull all the PVC fittings, valves and hoses to and from the pump to the pin and list of new parts to complete the work“. Once all the parts are ready to go. First of all, set the circuit breaker on your electrical board to the pump and turn it off and tag the breaker or tape over the switch with red tape so no one works on the pump breaker while you are working on it.

Then, tag & disconnect the power and ground wires from the motor. Now remove the supply and return to the drain from the pump. If there are no pipe unions in the supply line and the return line, this will be a good time to install them for the convenience of future service to the pump. The same goes for replacing any cracked battery valves or connections to the tank heater or chlorinator, this is the time to do all the plumbing repairs. Place the pump/motor assembly on the supplied base or wood, level the pump and align the thread on the die to establish the connection. After all the piping is done, reconnect the power wires to the motor as labeled on the manufacturer’s wiring diagram. Don’t get the pump up now. You should know that the connections of PVC seem to set up very quickly during assembly, but the framework needs to be cured in a few hours. before the pressure pipe is applied, the manufacturer’s instructions for curing time shall be followed.

Before you start the first pump, fill the pump cell in the pump with water, so that the pump water is started for the first time. Do a visual check of the connections and check that the pipe line connections are tight. Make sure the switch closes the pump off and go to the breaker panel and remove the tagging and reset the breaker to the off position. Go to the place where the pump is and it will take a moment to check the power and check the correct wiring. If the pump started without any noise, turn on the power again and run the pump for a few minutes while checking the new connections and pipe joints. If there are no pins and the pump/motor is smooth and quiet then you have completed the installation correctly. If there are noises or children, turn off the power and make repairs and repeat the procedure. Always follow the manufacturer’s installation manual supplied with the pump.

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