Aquatic Turtles

What kind of habitat should one use when considering an aquatic turtle?

The most common set-up I have seen (and use myself) is just a simple aquarium tank (a.k.a., fish tank). This can be more affordable than having a backyard oasis for your lovely turtle. I will state that, most turtle enthusiasts, would love the idea of a backyard oasis. Let’s keep it reasonable here though. Using a fish tank to house your turtle is suitable enough.

• For every 1 inch of the turtle; there should be 10 gallons of space. For example, if the turtle is 5 inches in length than a 50 gallon tank would be the minimum. I say minimum because one must keep in mind that turtles will grow to suite the environment
• I currently have a turtle who is around 7 inches in length. His tank is 55 gallons. The turtles length is pretty much the same as the total width of the tank. I would not suggest this, as you want your turtle to be 100 percent comfortable in his tank. They need ample room to turn around in. However, this problem can be solved by using wider tanks.
• I would suggest that you look for a tank that is, at least, a couple inches wider than your turtle is length wise. Two to three inches should be suitable.
• If you plan on adding decorations to the tank, extra space may be needed to accommodate the extra space hoggers. Turtles really do not need much is the area of decoration. The turtle will destroy many of them over time. Stay away from anything pointy, please. KEEP IN MIND that your turtle likes to dive. They can sometimes be rather clumsy when doing so. These pointy objects can become hazardous to the turtle’s diving routine. They can damage skin or even the turtle’s shell.
• If you feel compelled to decorate the tank, here are some suggestions; wallpaper backdrops that are cut to size and taped against the back of the tank, aquatic plants (the turtle may destroy these over time), crushed coral instead of gravel, and stone like ornaments or caves. Research aquatic plants or ask a sales associate to help you pick out what will NOT harm the turtle. Don’t go for real bushy-like plants, I have learned from experience that the shreds only end up cluttering the water surface and the filter. Use something strong. I go for plants that have minimal leaves (but pretty looking) and longer/thicker stems or stalks. Make sure these plants are rooted. I have woke up many mornings with Otis’s plants move about his tank.

The water filtration system you decide to use is VERY important. Aquatic turtles can be MESSY. I recommended going for Dual-Filter Systems. The packaging will show how many gallons of water it is designed to filtrate. It is helpful if you go for a system that is for a slightly larger tank. For example, I just got a 40 gallon tank. I have two water filtration systems to choose from. One is for 30-40 gallons and one is for 50-60 gallons. I would chose the 50-60 gallon system. Doing this and also choosing one with dual-filters is fantastic. The water stays clearer longer. This is especially important if you decide to feed your turtle in his tank. Certain aquatic turtles are VERY MESSY EATERS!

Keep in mind that a good filtration system will lead to healthy, clean water. In return it aids in the turtles health and comfort in his environment. It is recommended to clean 25% of the water monthly. A better filtration system can enable the cleaning to take place every two months (this also depends on what else in in the tank). You should clean out the filters once a month under cold water.

If you decide to add fish to the tank (even just feeders), there should be an air pump placed in the tank. It is nice to look at, provided needed oxygen for plants and fish, and also helps in creating a current in the water. Water circulation is very important. It is also important to have a heater placed into the tank. You will not need one that is designed for larger tanks. If you have a 55 gallon tank without many fish; a heater designed for a 40 gallon tank is sufficient enough. The same goes for the air pump. Turtles do surface for air.

Don’t worry about pH. This is important with fish or other exotic aquatic animals and is not extremely important with most aquatic turtles that are kept as pets. I am not saying this for exotic aquatic turtles! Some turtles require delicate care and are not good for pets!

Now on to chemicals. You will need some and they can be found at any major pet store. They help in keeping the water healthy and clean. Here is a list of what you need: algae killer (helps maintain a balance), water conditioner (purifies the water), water clarifier professional strength (clears up mucky water and clumps particles for easy filtration), biological waste reduction (for rapid reduction of organic waste), and biological filtration booster.

1. Algae Killer: I recommend and use Algae Control by Tetra for freshwater aquariums. I do not deal with salt water tanks, however, I do add salt every-now-then for my brackish water turtles. it provides added health benefits to my diamondback turtle. I add about 1 cup every two months.
2. Water Conditioner: I use Stress Coat by API (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals). This brand helps reduce stress of the aquatic creatures in the tank (including the turtle). Water conditioner will remove chlorine, chloramines, and ammonia from tap water.
3. Water Clarifier: any professional strength brand. The sales associate should know which is not good for turtles. I use Crystal Clear by AP PRO. It can be used for fresh and saltwater tanks. You get your money worth with this product. It is cheaper and you don’t have to use as much as you would with other brands. The tank is clear over night (literally).
4. Biological Waste Reduction: I use Turtle Clean by Nutrafin. It is the best one I have found yet and I love the product. It isn’t the cheapest, but it works great for turtles. You only need to use it when you clean the tank. It helps break the organic waste down. Turtle excrete PLENTY of organic waste. Like I said, they can be messy.
5. Biological Filtration Booster: This contains live healthy bacteria. This is not required, but is helpful. It is only used when you clean the tank. I use Stress Zyme+ by API (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals).
6. If you wish to give your brackish water turtle some salt, I recommend the small milk carton boxes of Aquarium Salt by API. Do not add much. Half or one cup per cleaning.

You can find most of these at Petsmart. I often find them in local pet stores as well.

I also consider these products for the care of your turtle:

• Repti Wound-Healing Aid by Zoo Med. Used as a topical antiseptic to help heal burns, cuts, and abrasions.
• Turtle VitaShell by Tetra Fauna. This is shell and skin conditioner.
• Repti Turtle Sulfa Dip by Zoo Med. Used for the treatment, prevention, and control of external bacterial diseases and aids in the prevention of secondary fungus infections in turtles. Great product. Use cooler water when you do a treatment. Turtles like to excrete their waste in warmer water. The treatments become messy in this scenario, but less so if you use cooler water.
• Turtle Eye Drops by Nature Zone. Opens and cleans inflamed eyes.
• Anti-Parasite Pellets by Reptile Xtra. I also recommended the same brand for Bacteria. It is important to do Bacteria treatment first then the Parasite. Feed only this for 3 days each week for 3 weeks per treatment.

That was a lot of information. Turtles are not simple pets. They require a lot. So let’s get into what else your turtle needs.

1. A floating island. This can be purchased at a pet store or made at home. Do your research before making one. Certain items will make the turtle ill. The turtle needs to bask on a floating island. This also helps them dry out their shell to prevent soft-shell disease. Make sure they can fit comfortably on the island and climb onto it easily. The best floating islands on ones that are stationary. Ones that can be attached to the side of the tank.
2. An empty smaller tank to use for dry docking and/or feeding. This small tank can be used for travel as well.
3. Do not use gravel substrate. Turtles like grazing. If you use Crushed Coral; it is safe for the turtle and provides a source of vitamins or minerals.
4. The tank itself will need UV lighting for at least 12 hours a day. A clamp on heating lamp is good to have in addition to the tank bulbs. The clamp on can be used when dry docking or you can clamp in on the aquarium for added heat and humidity.
5. A Temperature Reader is important also. You can get ones that stick to the side of the tank and these kind are very cheap. They work though. If you want your turtle to hibernate during the winter months; just take out the heater. Otherwise, during winter months, the temp should stay around 60 to 65 degrees. During summer months you may not need the heater, unless you like cold air conditioning. My turtles do not hibernate, so their tanks remain around 60 or 65 degrees. Some health conditions require more or less warmth in the tank.
6. If you provide decoration, place something safe for the turtle to rub on. They enjoy this and helps shed the scutes of their shell. Nothing sharp!!!

So now you may wonder what you would use when cleaning the turtles water. Simple items are used for this; all available at the pet store.

• Siphon System: siphons the dirty water and particles out for you. Ask a sales associate to help in your decision. I use a 25 foot siphon hose that hooks up to my sink. This cut down my cleaning hours from 4 hours to less than 2. The hose cost me around 40 dollars at Petsmart. I would recommend you go there to purchase the siphon. You need this item!!! It is easy to use too and more efficient than using only a bucket. A bucket (I must add) will NOT clean the water out.
• You do need a bucket to empty the siphoned water into. This can be work. I recommend using a strong, 3 gallon bucket. A one gallon is not sufficient enough. Most people may be able to carry 3 gallons. I usually dump the water outside in my garden area (my plants seem to blossom) or in the bath tub. Please clean your bath tub afterward!!!
• Scrub Brush for cleaning the tank walls. Petsmart has some, nice affordable ones. Durable too. I use one from there with a blue handle and blue sponge like end. Works great!!!

Last, we discuss what to feed your turtle. Turtle pellets (that is usually the title on the product too) are important as the basic diet. I would include some shrimp for the meat eaters (freeze dried or prepackaged at your local pet store).

Some turtles like to chew bones. Funny isn’t it? They can have cuttle bones ONLY. These are the white things that birds chew on. It helps provide calcium for your turtle and keeps his beak growth consistent. Some pet stores will sell a pound of cuttle bones for only a few dollars. One cuttle bone can last up to a couple months (with a healthy tank). They should be thrown out once they look to be changing color. It is good to rinse them off every now-and-then.

Here are the products I use for my turtle’s meals:

• Jumbo Krill, Freeze Dried Jumbo Shrimp by Tetra. They in small metal cans with plastic lids. My turtle just LOVES them! These should not be fed alone. A turtle only needs as much food as the size of his head, maybe once or twice every other day (except baby turtles; they should be fed at least once daily).
• ReptoMIN Floating Food Sticks by Tetra fauna. This should be the turtles MAIN diet. Supplement with the shrimp. You can use Krill and even worms sometimes.
• Aquatic Turtle Adult Food Pellets by EXO TERRA. I always keep two different kinds of pellets. My turtle gets a portion of each, including the shrimp. Clean out whatever the turtle does finish within 10 minutes.
• I often have feeder fish (some out grow my turtle and become semi-permanent residents. I use TetraFin Goldfish Crisps. This is healthier than most other goldfish flakes. Your turtle needs the fish to stay healthy for when he can finally catch and eat it. Feeder fish are VERY cheap. I buy them once every couple months (3-4 months) and I usually can get around 10 to 12 feeders for around 1 dollar at most pet stores.

Most of these products that I use are found in Petsmart or online. Sometimes I find them in local pet stores. I always search and compare the products and the prices.

You are good to go and so is your turtle. Always do your research though. If you do not take care of the creature properly, you do not deserve to have it as a pet!!!!!