For those who haven’t heard of Shepard Fairey’s so-called revolutionary ‘experiment in phenomenology’ should be considered somewhat fashion ignorant, at this point. It started in the 90’s with artist Shepard Fairey working at a skate shop, learning the art of cut-and-paste, and embellishing punk band logos on his t-shirts. From there, the ‘Andre the Giant has a posse’ movement was created, with Fairey bombing the streets in an attempt to further his street cred.
But this is 2006, and Shepard Fairey’s Obey Giant campaign is jaded. On one hand, Shepard is still making visually stunning art (and subsequently getting arrested for pasting it in public places), and on the other hand he’s rolling around in piles of sweaty dollar bills. He is still embellishing those old punk band logos – utilizing nostalgic art and punk stylings for his own – and has raised himself to a fashion entrepreneur. With apparel being distributed internationally, the Obey Giant campaign indeed has become a phenomenon. Jeans, jackets, hats, hoodies, t-shirts – you name it and Obey Giant makes it. In corporate clothing seasons such as fall, no less.
But is it fashionable?
Arguably, yes – it was. Obey Giant, while it was still rising earlier in the millennium, made clothing reminiscent of historic socialist designs. T-shirts even featured Mao’s head, with an ironic Obey text scrawled above. The clothing was basic, utilitarian. It was inconspicuous; perfect gear for the graffiti-worshipping outlaw street artists that comprised its niche. Basic, earth tone colors adorning conservative designs that would never have been worn if it weren’t for that little Andre the Giant face.
But that was then. Nowadays, the Obey Giant brand is featured in a number of corporate marketplaces, including Urban Outfitters. T-shirts are still the focus for Shepard Fairey’s designs and they’re still visually stunning. They’d be fashionable – if they weren’t so dang unethical and embarrassing.
For a fashion icon to be economically viable and artistic/ anti-corporate is impossible. Maybe Fairey does still listen to the Misfits, but does that mean he should take the coveted Misfits skull, warp it enough to create a [perfectly legal] non-reproduction, then use it to promote his business? Sure he should; he’s just looking out for number one (himself). What is absurd, however, is that this Obey design should be considered homage and/or a form of punk rock expression – especially when it’s gracing the chest of some pimply Jason Mraz fan who shops the fall sale at Urban Outfitters.
Face it; Shepard Fairey has single-handedly become the biggest poseur in the apparel game. Is anyone really going to ‘bomb’ the streets and paste Obey Giant artwork, thinking it’s some revolutionary statement that embodies some icon of punk rock or socialism? In fact, it actually raises the question as to why Shepard Fairey doesn’t just pay for actual advertising like any other company. It might keep him out of jail.
And I guess that boils it down – Obey Giant is just any other company. Obey Giant tries to tap into an image, like any other company. Obey Giant makes money, like any other company. Come fall season, Obey will release its fall line to sell $35 t-shirts, $75 jeans, and $150 jackets. Not very punk rock at all, and far from socialist.
Despite Shepard Fairey’s open embrace of entrepreneurial capitalism, Obey Giant has become [and perhaps always has been] an embarrassment to fashion. So stay away this fall when you’re buying clothing, unless you too wish to be a total poseur. How long until Shepard Fairey’s art is rejected? Probably never. But with your help, consumers won’t be confused by the mixed messages his clothing is sending (and getting ripped off in the process).
