The composition can be a great addition to any gardener’s home or non-gardener’s home. Many people turn to composting in their yards for many reasons including wanting to reduce waste, compost in their gardens, save money on compost, or want to know exactly what is going into their compost.
Composting bins can be expensive, difficult, or not so easy to build. There are a few ways to help with this. You can leave the bin empty and make a compost pile. For some it is not an option. Especially if you live in the city, in an apartment, etc. Sometimes you don’t want to have a pile of compost in your yard. It is understandable. So, what does a person do when the above is not an option? Simple, garbage. Not only is it cheap, it’s easy to find, but it takes nothing more than a plastic trash bin or two, a lid (preferably one that fits in the bin), and an electric screw driver to set it up. Also maybe a few sides to sit in the bin. But that is not the case. I will go into more detail about this in a bit.
Setting up the bin is quite simple. An idea for a bin size is between 32 gallons to 50 gallons. It is difficult to do anything major when it comes time to turn the compost. If you are using an old bin, wash it carefully with the lid on. So I’m sorry. Take the bin and put it down. Take an electric drill and drill about an inch holes all along the sides and bottom. Wear safety glasses or goggles. Plastic is harmful to the eyes and can be very dangerous (even blind!). You may also want to put holes in the lid. But it depends on a few things. If it rains a lot in your area, don’t overdo it. It could be because your compost is getting wet. If I live in an area like I do if it doesn’t rain a whole lot throughout the year but when it does, it’s like the floodgates are open. You also don’t want to dig out the cover. Too much water will immediately compost. But it’s entirely up to you.
To elevate or not to elevate is another choice we need to make. This is to enter the bricks. If you sit the compost bin on the sides, it will help with better drainage and better air circulation. But if it sits directly on the ground, it allows access to composting organisms and worms. Either way is a matter of choice. Since I don’t have bricks lying around, I just sit directly on the ground.
Now that you have your trash bin set up, it’s time to add compost. When it comes to composing there are two types. It is green which is the material of nitrogenous fats and needs the material of carbon. You want to try to keep it 50/50 between the two. It’s okay if it’s not exactly 50/50 but as close as possible is the idea. But what exactly do you consider green or brown? Here is a small list to help you get started.
Browns;
Forest pieces (must be created!)
Straw
bark
Stems of grass
He remembered the fruits
Peanut shells
Dry leaves
SAW (it’s unmade!)
Stems & the vines
Greens;
Coffee grounds (you can also throw in a filter paper)
Tea case (you can toss in a paper bag and carefully remove the cotton string in the staple mode)
Food waste
Garden waste
Grass clippings
Seaweed
Vegetable chips
Weeds (avoid weeds that have gone to seed)
Everything is to be avoided;
Chemicals – lawn/garden chemicals (herbicides/pesticides) may survive the processing component and remain in the final product. Chemicals are not involved in the composition, period!
Pressure treated and other chemically treated wood – It is treated with chemicals and can be toxic to compost and plants.
Coal ash – Contains high enough amounts of iron and sulfur to damage plants.
Colored paper – Paper with color (including newsprint) contains heavy metals and other toxic materials. Do not add anything, no matter how compost!
Cat litter – Can contain various disease organisms and can make manure toxic and dangerous to handle.
Inorganic materials – Glass, tin, plastic, and metal are never destroyed.
Diseased plants – Diseased organisms can be spread when compost is used for other plants. Extreme heat is received by organisms that cannot really be contained in this type of composition. If there is doubt as to whether the plant is diseased or not, it is best not to add it to the pile.
Meat, bones, fish, fat, dairy – will make the manure smelly and attract animals. What you don’t want.
If you are in doubt whether you should add something to the compost bin it is better to be safe and not add it. The health of you, your family, your compost and your garden is more important. There are two ways to put all this in your stack. If you have enough green and gray you can make a layered pattern. Easy and simple. They have a brown layer, then a green layer, back and forth. But sometimes you either don’t have enough or you don’t want to spend all your time on it. So you can throw everything, better mixed. And then you just keep on throwing stuff like you have.
When mixing you want to keep it moist, but not sticky. It is quite moist when it has a beaten sponge. When you notice that it is drying out easily you can just take a hose and drink it a little at a time until it reaches the right moisture. Another thing you can do is if you have some fruit juice that is no longer good, you can just pour it into the compost but make it from real fruit.
At some point you may want to turning point it. The idea is that the more you turn the faster you will have compost. At most you want to turn it on once a week. More and you can limit that cooling. Or if you prefer not to fight at all. In this way, it will take longer to complete, but it will be less work. There are a few ways to turn it around. One is a bin on its side with a lid securely wrapped around it to sleep. This type of case is slipped, heavy and more difficult to stagger around. Another method is to push the compost into another peg. Prepare the bin as you first. Take a fork (or shovel, but a fork seems to work better) and compost into the new bin. Some people find it easier if they hold a filled pen, so that they can easily suffocate things while standing straight ahead. Try it to see what you prefer.
The finished manure is a dark and rotten soil. It also has an earthy smell. It may be necessary to transfer it to separate the target from the bits that are still corrupted. It is cured in the open for at least two weeks after the composition is finished. Then use compost that you have created yourself.
