Installing slate tile around your fireplace can be an easy way to incorporate a natural element into your home, as well as give you a spectacular focal point for the room. Before you rush to your phone book or the internet to locate your nearest tile installation professional, consider doing the job yourself. Not only will installing the tile yourself save you money on labor, but it also will also allow you to add your own personal touch to your home. As the wife of a tile installer, I’ve worked on several jobs with my husband and I can tell you from experience, it’s not quite as difficult as you might think.
Supplies You Will Need
Tape measure
Cement Backer Board (We prefer Durock)
Thinset
Jigsaw with carbide blade or utility knife
Drill
Screws
Tile
Thinset with acryllic or slate tile adhesive
Grout
Spacers
Trowel with ¼ inch notches
Grout float
Sponge
Level
Directions
Step 1-Determine where you want your tile. You may want just a border on your fireplace, tile the complete height of the wall; or a combination.
Step 2-Measure the area using your tape measure. This is not the time to guesstimate; a miscalculation in your measurements can end in you making another trip to the store for supplies.
Step 3-Go shopping. Your local home improvement or tile store should have everything you need. Your tile selection will depend on where you’re putting your tile. If you’re just bordering the fireplace, you will probably want a smaller tile. Likewise, if you’re going up the wall, you will probably want bigger tiles. If you’re having trouble determining how much of each item you need, the employees can generally figure it for you if you have your measurements with you. Ideally, you will want to buy about 10% more than whatever they tell you. If you’ve measured wrong or break a tile, the extra could come in handy.
Step 3-Cover the area you plan to tile with a thin layer of thinset and cover with cement board. This is a good time to ask someone for help. While you can put up cement board alone, it’s heavy so you’ll have an easier time if you have a little help. You can cut cement board with either a jigsaw with a carbide blade or a utility knife. If using the jigsaw, it’s a good idea to wear eye protection and a mask. When using a utility knife, run the knife through on the mesh side, then fold, and it should break fairly easily. The utility knife method tends to be quicker and not near as messy. Once you have the cement board up, use screws and a drill to secure it. You want to be sure that the screw head is actually below the cement board surface. Otherwise, it will cause problems when you start to lay the tile over it. Be sure to clean your trowel thoroughly after applying the thinset or have another one on hand for putting the tile up.
Step 4-Determine your tile layout. Be prepared to make adjustments. While working from dead center on the wall may be easiest, it might leave you with small slivers of tile on the sides, something you don’t want. Those slivers can be difficult to cut, not to mention they don’t look good.
Step 5-If your choice of adhesive was thinset, mix it using the directions on the package, but substitute acrylic for the water. If your choice was slate tile adhesive, you can follow the directions just the way they’re written on the package.
Step 6-Using the trowel, apply a thin layer of adhesive to the wall, working in small sections. You don’t want to spread a large section because you run the risk of it drying before you get all your tile up.
Step 7-Apply tile over adhesive, pressing firmly to ensure it will stick and using spacers. The spacers will keep the tile from sliding before it sets, as well as keep your spacing between tiles even. Use a level to keep the tile even. Continue applying adhesive and tile until you’re finished. Keep a damp sponge handy to wipe adhesive that seeps up and onto the face of the tile. Let dry 24 hours.
Step 8-Wipe tile to remove any dust or dirt, paying close attention to the space between tiles.
Step 9-Using package instructions, mix your grout. You want to get all the lumps out and your grout should be the consistency of smooth peanut butter. If you’re doing the height of the wall, you may want to consider mixing only a small amount of grout to start, and then mixing more as you go along. Let sit 10 minutes before using.
Step 10-Remove spacers and wipe tile again to ensure all dust and dirt is gone. Give grout a stir.
Step 11-Apply grout. Scoop some grout with your grout float and put it on the wall. Holding the grout float at a 45 degree angle, work grout back and forth over tile, concentrating on corners and the space between each tile. Once all the tile is covered in grout, let it sit 30 minutes.
Step 12-Once grout has had a chance to dry some, wet your sponge. Be careful not to over- or under-wet your sponge. Ideally, you want it somewhere between damp and sopping. Start at one corner and run the sponge across the tile at a 45 degree angle. Flip the sponge over and make a second wipe over the tile. Rinse the sponge well. Continue wiping, making sure to rinse your sponge after every couple wipes, until you’ve gone over all the tile. If there’s still a residue on the tile, go over it again.
Step 13-Sit back and enjoy the compliments on your beautiful slate tile fireplace.
Tips
*Always wear appropriate safety equipment, including eye protection and/or masks when cutting tile.
*Some people opt to apply sealant. If you choose to do so, give the tile 30 days to cure before applying and be sure to use a water-based sealant that’s oil and stain resistant. You can also choose to seal only the grout.
Source
SK, owner, Scott’s Custom Tile
