Chainsaws are cheaper and easier to operate than ever before. In fact, it’s cheaper to buy a new small saw than have any major repairs done to the old one. But no matter what kind of saw you own the chain will need sharpening sooner or later. Having to take your saw to a dealer or repairman is expensive as well as time consuming. Whose to say you won’t saw into a nail embedded in a tree right after you’ve had it sharpened. By learning this simple procedure you will save time and money, as well as being able to do something that a lot of people shy away from.
Recognizing when a chainsaw is dull is self evident. When the saw is sharp large, slightly curled chips will fall to the ground. The saw moves through the wood smoothly and you can feel the teeth actually shaving it’s way through. A dull saw will work you three or four times as hard and use up more fuel in the process. Instead of large chips falling what appears to be sawdust sprays out instead. This tells you it’s time to get out the file.
Although 12 volt electric sharpeners are available and do a great job, I wouldn’t recommend them for a beginner. So this procedure is for using a round file. Determining what size file to use is the first step. Because of different makes, models, and sizes of chainsaws there are different sizes of files used for your particular saw. If you bought the saw new then a file might have been included with the accessory kit. If not, there are several ways to determine the size needed.
The owner’s manual will usually have the size of the file listed. Other options are going on line to the manufacture or calling a repair shop. The easiest way is to look on the chain itself. The size of the chain may be seen on the side of the tooth, or on the section of tooth that slides in the groove on the saw bar itself. Take these numbers to a local or major hardware store to find the file you need. A file handle works great but is optional.
After obtaining the correct file place the saw on a flat surface, preferable at a comfortable working height. The tailgate of a pickup is ideal but the ground will suffice, even if it is harder on the back. Start by pointing the tip of the saw to your left. The chain itself must be loose enough to turn by hand. You will sharpen every other tooth in this position before rotating the saw to your right.
Always wear a pair of leather gloves while following this procedure. The tips of your fingers will get cut by the sharpened teeth if you don’t. With the tip of the saw pointing to your left the teeth to be sharpened on this side will slant from the tip of the saw, back to your right. Gently place the file along and under this slanted area of the tooth with the tip of the file fitted in the round area at the center of the bar. Without using any pressure at first make a slow stroke of the file keeping the angle with the slant.
When you are satisfied that you can keep the file at the correct angle, make two slow strokes, keeping most of the pressure on the bottom of the slanted area. For this first time keep the strokes limited to two. The reason for this is to learn how much pressure is needed to remove enough metal from the tooth without overdoing it and shortening the life of the chain. After sharpening every other tooth on this side (sometimes there are two of a kind in a row because of chain length) turn the tip of the saw to the right and repeat the process. You can tell the sharpened tooth by it’s bright appearance.
After sharpening both sides try out the saw to see if you’ve removed enough metal to achieve the large curled chips of wood. If not, then repeat the process. After a few trial and error strokes of the file you will soon know how much pressure and how many strokes to use to achieve the desired results. You should be able to see the metal falling away when the file is used. Observe all safety precautions. This is a dangerous tool.
