As we followed the guide into the cave, I imagined what it would be like to be crawling a quarter-mile or more deep into the earth with your way lit only by a flickering torch. Once there, you look around and the walls come alive with images of mammoths, bison, horses, and even a rhinoceros. The figures appear to move in the flickering torchlight.
Some of the most spectacular cave art in the world is located in the Dordogne region of southwest France. Caves in this region were decorated with paintings and engravings between 10,000 and 20,000 years ago. Primitive tools and difficult access did not deter the prehistoric artists from creating amazing works of art.
Grotte de Lascaux
Lascaux is the most spectacular. Skillfully painted animals of all sizes and shapes adorn the galleries. The paintings’ creators were talented in the use of line and color and produced magnificent images. The large figures on the ceiling must have been created by artists lying on their backs atop scaffolding much the same way Michelangelo created the frescos of the Sistine Chapel. Unfortunately, the original cave is closed to visitors to protect it from deterioration. A replica cave, Lascaux II, has been created using the same techniques that were used in the original cave. People who have seen both claim that the replica is an exact copy of the original. The fact that one is visiting a replica does not diminish the experience.
Grotte Font de Gaume
Font de Gaume is the only other cave in this region that contains polychrome paintings consisting of two or more colors on the same animal. Expertly drawn bison, reindeer and horses are colored in browns, reds and blacks. Font de Gaume is open to visitors but fewer than 200 people are permitted to enter per day in groups of 12. A few tours are in English but most are in French. Even with a French guide, the passion of the guide and the impressive artwork make this an enjoyable experience.
Grotte des Combarelles
The art at Combarelles is not painted, it is engraved. Talented artists scratched mammoths, horses, reindeer and other animals on the walls of the narrow cave using stone, bone or wood tools and in some places fingers. The skill of the artists is apparent in the way only a few lines are used to make a beautiful representation of the animal. The number of visitors is extremely limited with only a few guided tours of 6 to 8 visitors are allowed per day. The art is subtle but impressive.
Grotte deRouffignac
This cave provides a different experience as a small electric train takes visitors along the wide corridors. While the visit is less intimate, the art is beautiful. Images of mammoths dominate but there are also bison, horses and ibex. Some of the animals appear in groups that look as if they are a composition rather than random images.
Grotte de Peche Merle
This is a large cave with spectacular rock formations along with outstanding artwork. The spotted horses are most impressive but there are a variety of other animals depicted. One of the most interesting features of this cave is a set of ancient human footprints preserved in the rock. The number of visitors is limited to about 700 per day so it is often easier to get reservations here than at other caves.
Information
During the summer months, reservations by phone are necessary for Fonte de Gaume, Combarelles and Peche Merle. Reservations are also recommended at Lascaux II since it is so popular. During the off season, reservations are not necessary; however it is advisable to arrive early.
Fonte de Gaume and Combarelles
Phone for reservations: 05 53 06 86 00
Website: http://eyzies.monuments-nationaux.fr/#details
Lascaux II
Phone for reservations: 05 53 51 95 03
Website: http://www.lascaux.culture.fr/#/fr/00.xml
Peche Merle
Phone for reservations; 05 65 31 27 05
Website: http://www.pechmerle.com/english/
Rouffignac
Phone (no reservations, arrive by 10:30 AM to secure a tour): 05 53 05 41 71
Website: http://www.grottederouffignac.fr/cadreFR.asp
