Hitting the road is a favorite American pastime. For decades, travel trailers, Class A, B and C motor homes, truck campers and more take us to our vacation spots and return us home.
Sometimes a new RV’er buys their vacation “dream,” puts it in storage, and leaves it there until the next vacation. Much to their surprise, they might spend time in a hotel waiting for the repair shop to get them back on the road. This is, for the most part, preventable.
For this article, the term “RV” applies to truck campers, Class A, B and C motor homes, all travel trailers, both home built and manufactured.
With these ten maintenance tips, you can spend your vacation having fun.
Air Conditioner
Once a month, climb on top of the RV. With a screwdriver, remove the A/C’s shroud, or cover. Under the mechanical part of the unit, visually inspect the drain pan. If it has anything but water in it, clear it out.
Make sure the drain holes aren’t clogged. These allow the water to drip onto the top of the rig and down the side. If they’re clogged, the water has to go somewhere- inside the rig where it can damage the frame, insulation and wiring.
Especially if the RV stays in the backyard, driveway or in storage, check the pressure in all the tires before hitting the road. Underinflated tires are far more likely to go flat or have a blowout.
Visually inspect the tires as well. The UV rays of the sun will destabilize the rubber over time. If the walls of the tires are cracked, seriously consider replacement before traveling.
When returning from vacation, stop at a dump site and empty the freshwater, gray water and black water tanks. If you loaned your rig to a friend/relative, go with them to a dump site and make certain.
Remember the movie, “RV,” with Robin Williams and Randy Quaid? At a grocery store parking lot, William’s character tells his son to use the RV’s toilet. Too bad- the tank wasn’t drained at all, and is full of yuck. Most commercial RV rental businesses won’t rent an RV in that condition, though.
When storing the RV over the winter, fill the water lines with RV antifreeze. Don’t use regular auto antifreeze- it’s poisonous.
In the spring, flush the lines completely before drinking water from the freshwater tank.
Propane Tanks
Your LP or propane gas system heats the water, cooks your food and warms the RV.
Propane tanks (or bottles) should not be overly rusty, and the top protector cover shouldn’t be broken. Never accept a tank in this condition. Keep the cover over the tanks secured.
Over the winter, take the tank(s) home. If you have a propane barbeque, hook up your tank(s) with special fittings. You paid for the gas; it makes sense to use it.
Never leave propane sitting over the winter or summer in tanks. In the heat, the gas expands and the pressure in the tanks increases, so keep the covers on. Cool your tank(s) with water periodically when the heat is at its worst, or get them in the shade.
Spray the tank(s) with a solution of soapy water before testing. Turn the gas on. If you see bubbles, stop. There’s a leak and it has to be fixed before going any further. All of the connections inside the RV can be tested this way. If you smell rotten eggs, that’s a chemical added to the gas to alert you to a leak.
Generator
All generators need maintenance. Gas generators are well known for having fuel problems if left sitting for a month without use. Gasoline becomes stale when sitting and the generator won’t run. Check your generator’s manual to see if a gas stabilizer is okay for your unit.
Propane generators don’t have as many fuel issues, but still need to be maintained.
Follow your generator’s manual for specific instructions on maintenance. At least once a month, turn the generator on and allow it to run for at least an hour. In an emergency, you’ll know it works.
Windows and Doors
Open and close all the windows and doors on your RV. Open and close all the storage doors on your RV. If everything opens and closes without problems, wonderful. Test the locks on the doors, and the storage doors. Any lock that you have to wrestle with should be inspected for rust or damage.
If the inside of the lock is rusted or damaged, replace it. Many RV repair shops local and online carry replacements.
Inspect the seals around the doors and windows. If any look broken, replace them. If you even think you suspect a leak around a door or window, replace the seals.
Repair or replacing the frame of an RV isn’t cheap, easy or quick.
Seams and Roof
Visually inspect all the seams where metal meets metal, and all the trim. Climb up on the roof and inspect carefully.
If the roof looks pitted, as in the case of some PVC roofs, repair or replacement is in order.
Seal all seams to keep water out. If any screws are missing, replace them and consider driving an extra screw a half inch away for extra holding power.
Tires and Wheels and Brakes, Oh, My
Just as important as tire pressure, check the tread depth on your RV. The old method hasn’t changed- take a penny, stick it into the treads, Lincoln’s head first. If you can see the top of his head, change the tire.
Make certain you’re selecting new tires, not retreads. These are notoriously unsafe. Only buy tires rated for the weight and type of traveling you engage in.
Be certain to maintain the wheel bearings with the proper amount of grease, just as you do in your tow vehicle. The axels need maintenance, too.
If your RV has electronic brakes, keep them in perfect working order. Trying to stop without them could be disastrous.
Lights and Tow Wiring Harness
In some states, very little is written about running lights. In other states, they’re mandatory. They illuminate the shape of your RV so drivers know there’s something on the road instead of empty space. Those trying to pass you won’t run into your rig thinking they have room.
Hook your wiring harness up and look at the lights. Note any light that’s out and replace it. Test the turning lights, and the backup lights. It’s worth noting that not all states require backup lights on trailers, which is unsafe. If your trailer doesn’t have them, installation isn’t expensive.
Inspect the harness- broken or cracked wires need to be replaced.
Batteries
Deep cycle batteries are special. They provide power over longer periods of time than a “quick start” battery, which provides all the power at once to start a vehicle.
There are different types of deep cycle batteries on the market, such as lead acid and AGM- aggregated glass matt batteries. Lithium, and nickel cadmium batteries aren’t widely available aside from the industrial market.
Visually inspect the battery for leakage. If present, go to a battery supplier and have the battery replaced. Do not attempt to use it.
If you have a battery that requires water, keep distilled water handy and frequently check the water level.
Monitor your battery’s use so you don’t go below the recommended level. Every so often, overcharging some deep cycle batteries helps maintain their usable life.
Learn more about deep cycle battery maintenance at this link.
Not only RV’s on the road full or part-time, but also those whose use is a primary residence need regular maintenance, too. Including the tires.
Don’t forget to check the tongue, trailer jack and hitch, too.
Have fun with your RV- whether you’re a full timer, part timer or newbie.
Source: Russ and Tina DeMaris, “New RVer Asks: Why is My Air Conditioner Dripping?” New RVer Website, no date given
Source: Charlie Gaston, “How to Maintain Propane Tank Fittings on RVs,” Trails.com website, no date given
