Red-footed tortoises are among the most popular tortoise species in the American pet trade, and rightfully so. These gregarious, social turtles are known for their friendly and even funny nature, their ability to bond with humans, and their small size compared to other popular turtles. These turtles grow to be 12-18 inches across, which although quite large, is still smaller than other popular turtles. If you are interested in getting a Red Foot Turtle, or already have one and need to learn more, here are the basics:
Dwelling
Like other turtles, an aquarium is not the best enclosure for a red turtle’s feet. There are a few reasons for this. First, the air circulation is generally poor. Second, since turtles can see through their enclosure, they probably spend a large part of their day avoiding things that can become stressed or injured. And finally, Red Footed Turtles will outgrow the aquarium very quickly, and only the largest aquarium will be big enough even for babies. An aquarium with substrates on three sides that do not allow the turtles to see the glass is acceptable as short term children if only the ventilation in the aquarium is sufficient.
Finally, you will need to build a turtle table, which is a better enclosure for red foot turtles. For simple instructions on how to do this, check out this site.
The ideal long-term enclosure for your red four-legged turtle is outside, in an enclosed and secured area. Your tortoise will do this with adequate sunlight, room to roam, and food to eat. This site provides a useful overview of how to set up a healthy outdoor enclosure for your turtles.
While your turtle lives inside, there are a few important moments. First, humidity. Red-footed turtles are tropical turtles and are used to high humidity. It is therefore necessary to have a layer, or a substrate, that holds moisture well. Many people use nontoxic soil or peat moss. However, I have found that the biggest challenge with the Red Foot Tortoise is that the substrate prevents bugs and mold. Mosser Lee Moss is particularly good at this and tends not to be too dusty. Mist your moss and tortoise several times a day to maintain adequate humidity levels in the enclosure.
Second, your Red Footed Tortoise will need a hiding place. Provide her with several boxes or sticks where she can scratch and hide.
Finally, it’s important to remember that Red-footed Turtles, like babies, put everything in their mouths. Hence it is important that there is nothing toxic in the enclosure and they cannot suffocate anything. carefully remove the packaging from any cage furniture you buy and make sure the substrate you want is nontoxic.
Smart and Fired
Red-footed tortoises can undergo a variety of health problems if the temperature in their cage is not appropriate. Ideally, your turtle should be facing a slope: the warm side and the cooler area. The sunny area should be 85-95 degrees, and the cooler area should be room temperature. You can do this with a heat lamp (or several heat lamps at once if one doesn’t do the trick). Do not use a heating stone or spike; these can burn your thyroid. Also, make sure that the heat light is far enough away from the cage, otherwise your turtle will burn itself in it. Most importantly, be careful not to let the hot parts get too hot. Baby turtles tend to sleep, and if the turtle can’t lay down and flip back, it can cook to death under the heat light.
Red-legged turtles need UVB sunlight in order to metabolize calcium and maintain a healthy shell. To help your turtle do this, provide it with artificial UVB light, available at your local pet store. You can also walk her outside to walk around once a day to give her an added boost of sunlight. Without this vital light, the turtle will develop metabolic disease and eventually die.
Food and water
Unlike other popular turtle species that generate grasses and weeds that thrive on diets, Red Foot Turtles can not only thrive on vegetables, but He also needs some protein. Feed your turtle greens such as mustard, turnips and collard greens, and provide him with protein once a week. re-hydrated dry cat food. Your tortoise will also love geranium and hibiscus flowers and rose flowers, as well as zucchini squash, all of which are excellent sources of calcium.
In order for your turtle to get enough calcium, either powder it with calcium powder every day, or gnaw on a cuttlefish bone. Bones are cheap and have the added benefit of allowing your thyroid to determine when it needs extra calcium.
Health
One of the best things you can do for your red footed tortoise is find a competent reptile vet before you need one! Call around and google when you first get the turtle, and consider your turtle a meet and greet. This way, if your tortoise is sick, it will still know what your tortoise looks like when it is healthy and will be better equipped to provide helpful direction. Red-footed turtles are prone to a number of health problems, but the most common are metabolic bone disease and respiratory. If you hear the turtle screeching, cooing, or coughing, or see fluid coming out of the nose, you need to get to the vet right away. Metabolic disease is typically caused by a poor diet, but it can also be triggered by other lifestyle factors. If you notice that your turtle’s shell is rough with a pyramidal look to the targets (each square part of the shell), or your turtle’s shell is not very hard, it is also time to go to the vet.
Behavior
Red-footed tortoises are very social and will develop bonds with caregivers over time. To socialize your tortoise to humans, handle it frequently and gently, and do not allow your tortoise to handle children. Hand feeding is another excellent socialization strategy.
While all turtles can be challenging to care for, Red-footed Turtles tend to be some of the toughest, friendliest, and most playful turtle species to keep as pets. Correctly your turtle will live for many decades.
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